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Post by Five4fighting on Feb 1, 2007 16:17:43 GMT -5
Ok, I have a 20 ft Pro-Line Walk Around. This past summer the Automatic Bilge Pump quit working. It is still operational if I use the switch on the dash. But I don't like having to do that. I was told I could replace the "float". The boat is a model year 2000 and I bought it in 2002. As far as I know it is the original Bilge Pump and I want a new pump.
My question is, What brand, model, gph, etc.... would you recommend?
Thanks!
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Post by Bountyhunter on Feb 1, 2007 16:51:37 GMT -5
SHURFLO HEAVY DUTY SUBMERSIBLE BILGE PUMP/PUMPS 1800GPH I would get the best money could buy, when you realy need it you want the most GPH availble IMO. only $70.00 stores.ebay.com/EASTERN-MARINE-AUCTIONS
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Post by BAD KITTY on Feb 1, 2007 22:01:42 GMT -5
I would install the largest GPH pump you can find that will fit your current hose and thru hull fitting.
I'm very happy with RULE pumps and SureBail switches. I would stay away from Atwood pumps and switches.
I buy everything from Boatfix in NJ. Great prices and service ! Let me know if you need some help.
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Post by blueprints on Feb 1, 2007 22:32:17 GMT -5
I will back up rule pumps, there the only ones I have had last. Go ahead & install an extra one while your in there. An extra also means another thru hull fitting not just a "T" into the existing line. Go ahead & rip out any plastic thru hulls if you have them also, Stainless or brass are the only ones that should be sold.
Kyle
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Post by Five4fighting on Feb 2, 2007 6:54:23 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback guys!!! It sounds like SHUR FLO or RULE pumps are the way to go. I couldn't even tell you what kind of pump is in there... All I know is that it is gonna be a mother to get to!!!
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Post by phishman on Feb 2, 2007 8:32:31 GMT -5
Shane, Ive got a Proline too and my rear access hatch is directly over the bilge pump. Didnt look to be too bad of a job. My boat is a little different that yours as it is a DC, but may be similiar. As far as the pump goes, I would have to agree get the biggest baddest one out there. Definetely dont want to skimp on this. Where does your pump push the water out? Mine is above the water line on the rear...
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Post by don on Feb 2, 2007 9:15:15 GMT -5
The Rule pump with Rule float switch is the way to go. Do yourself a huge favor...make sure that all the wires are in 100% condition. Take a hard look at the wires with insulation peeled back and inch or so. If it's black, green, or otherwise corroded more than an inch from the previous termination replace it now. It doesn't hurt to check resistance either before doing the job. The wires and float switch are the weak links if any exist. Many boat builders, including top shelf names, do not used tinned wire and also neglect to use corrosion resistant butt connectors and properly seal them. A rule 1500gph pump with switch is less than 100 bucks. As a secondary, consider one of the "automatic" Rule models with the built in "smart" switch in 750 or 1000 gph. Set the secondary above the primary by a few incces. You could "T" into existing bilge exit hose before the loop, but second hose and through hull are recommended. Lastly, get rid of the cheap-ass corrugated hose and go to quality smooth walled hose, which will improve flow substantially when it really matters.
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Post by Crikey on Feb 13, 2007 9:21:44 GMT -5
Shane bring the boat down here I will fix you up. I can get any pumps and switches at cost plus I have these underwater splice kits that we use in the electric world
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Post by Five4fighting on Feb 13, 2007 9:52:24 GMT -5
Tommy, the boat is down there... Thanks for the offer, but I would like to try this on my own, The more I work on the boat the more I know... That way if I ever have another problem I have some sort of an idea...
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Post by phoenix29 on Feb 13, 2007 17:01:57 GMT -5
I agree with the Rule pumps and bigger is better, just be careful of the float swicth they make two models. The low price one usauly last about a year or two, spend the extra and get the better one. The smart pumps are great if you are in the water all the time, they come on every two minutes and if the sence pressure they stay on till its gone. Great for keeping your bulge dry when your in the water and are hooked up to shore power to keep your batteries up. If you are trailering it will keep working and could run your battery down.
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Post by Crikey on Feb 13, 2007 23:40:43 GMT -5
Thats cool Shane like I said if you want to swing the wrenches that is fine I have some great stuff to work with bilge pumps never to fail the wiring that is. Here is some prices on pumps
Rule
500 $15.74 1100 $26.31 1500 $57.51
float switch 18.46
I can also get Jabsco pumps as well
I can get just about anything at cost. Engine parts, props, pumps of all kinds, plugs, wires, lubes, controls, cables you name it.
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Post by BAD KITTY on Feb 14, 2007 9:32:17 GMT -5
Like Tommy mentioned, use ANCOR or similar adhesive lined heat shrink connectors to make the wire connections waterproof. Keep in touch and I'll give you a few.
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Post by Five4fighting on Feb 14, 2007 10:48:05 GMT -5
Tommy, You think I should use a pump with a seperate float switch or one that is built in the pump? I believe the one that is in there now had an internal switch. It may have gotten gunked up and that is why it is not working.
I also have to wait until I get down to the boat to see what size hose I have. I do not know.
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Post by Crikey on Feb 14, 2007 17:02:37 GMT -5
I put the rule automatic ones in the aft bilge of the not right and they work great. They are not the smart pumps so they dont run all the time only when needed. I think the more connections you have ie a float switch just one more thing to fail. So I would go with the automatic pump. if you leave the boat in the water maybe use a small 500 pump as an emergency pump.
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Post by marcelo on Feb 16, 2007 15:05:30 GMT -5
Shane, The bigger the better and the job is significantly easier if you can match up with the existing hose size. I used the built in sensor automatics from Rule and had alot of redundancy with pumps on my boat but did not have the best track record with built in sensor. Seemed like I was going through one a season and they are more expensive than standard pumps, but a hell of alot easier to install. I did have good luck with a rule pump that had a built in float and never had it go bad in 4-5 years.
One note you should take, make sure you match up the right amp fuse with whatever pump you install. I had one burn up on me with an automatic pump that did not shut down. I had the wrong amp fuse. It burnt right near a tank of fuel... I got real lucky and learned that lesson.
Marcelo
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